Slender young men wearing dhotis and carrying shields and swords stamp their feet rhythmically as they march to the drumbeats through the gardens surrounding Belgadia Palace.
The Mayurbhanj Chhau, a dance form originating from the 18th century and blending elements of martial arts with folklore, is among various cultural practices native to this region of eastern India that are presented to visitors lodging at what was once a royal residence but now operates as an exclusive boutique hotel.
Located in Baripada, a quaint town in the state of Odisha, the palace was constructed in 1804 and is managed by Akshita Manjari Bhanj Deo , aged 30, and her sister Mrinalika Bhanj Deo, who is 32 years old—the 48th generation of the Bhanja dynasty—were descendants of the rulers of the princely state of Mayurbhanj. This lineage dates back to around the 8th century until the late 1940s, after which the royal family was required to surrender their titles subsequent to India gaining independence.
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Up until then, India was a region governed by various kingdoms under the rule of opulent nawabs and maharajas. Following independence in 1947, these royalty figures had to relinquish control to the central government; however, they retained funding and authorization to oversee their territories, which persisted up till 1971.
This might have signaled the conclusion of an epoch, yet numerous royal families continue to hold sway and possess palaces as well as fortresses. The Bhanj Deo sisters are among a growing number of descendants of rulers who are converting their assets into luxury hotels or using their influence to develop other tourist attractions while helping to revive dying traditions and ancient arts.
The seasoned travelers now manage an 11-room hotel adorned with vibrant hues of red, green, and blue. These spaces can be reached through a marble hallway bedecked with antique mirrors, chandeliers, and sepia-toned portraits of regal forebears, leading up a deep mahogany stairway. The property began welcoming fee-paying visitors in 2019.
Bringing Mayurbhanj into the limelight was our main drive," states Mrinalika, who came back to India from New York, U.S., in 2014 after working at a fashion and perfume company. "Our aim was to showcase the area’s deep heritage, dynamic culture, and stunning landscapes globally, all while generating chances for local craftsmen and residents.
"The initiative aimed not only at reviving pride and fostering economic development among our community but also focused on rejuvenating a tangible area. By hosting sabai grass [a natural wild fiber] workshops and showcasing local Mayurbhanj Chhau dance performances, along with guided tours through Simlipal National Park, we guarantee an enlightening and memorable experience filled with engaging and hands-on travels," she says.
The siblings manage an artist residency program and also operate a charitable organization known as the Mayurbhanj Foundation. This entity concentrates on improving healthcare, education, and providing skill development for women and girls. By collaborating with various nonprofits and local enterprises, they've initiated training programs focused on traditional practices like Dokra metalcraft—a regional method involving lost-wax casting—and other eco-friendly handicrafts. They assist these craftsmen in accessing global marketplaces too. Additionally, their nonprofit called Future Star Sports Academy supports disadvantaged young individuals via athletics, education, and essential life-skills instruction.
However, nothing has drawn visitors quite like the Belgadia Palace.
“After restoring the palace into an opulent boutique hotel, we’ve observed a notable rise in travelers discovering Mayurbhanj either as lodgers at the palace itself or via exclusive partnerships and small-scale events with embassies and high-end companies,” explains Mrinalika. “Now serving as an entry point, the palace invites visitors to explore the area’s deep-rooted culture, fauna, and customs.”
This inflow has had a positive impact on the local economy, aiding businesses and generating job opportunities.
Surrounded by rocky terrain and caves in the tawny granite hills, Bera is a tiny village located in the Pali district of the western state of Rajasthan. Rajasthan Approximately 140 kilometers away from Udaipur lies Bera, renowned for its leopard population and the harmonious coexistence between these animals and the native Rabari tribe.
Kings from various parts of India hunted their first leopards in Bera. After a hunting prohibition was implemented in 1972, several deposed royalty transitioned into becoming conservationists.
By 2013, leopards were regarded as nuisances until environmentalist and wildlife photographer Shatrunjay Pratap—in collaboration with his spouse, Rajkumari Katyaini—initiated a two-year struggle together with the Rabari community. Their aim was to mend relations between humans and these animals and also fight against local mining activities.
The two come from regal backgrounds: Pratap hails from the Sisodia dynasty, which governed the Mewar territory (subsequently known as Udaipur state under British rule) starting in the 1600s. Meanwhile, Rajkumari Katyaini originates from the Karauli lineage, rulers of an area spanning from Mathura (located in today’s Uttar Pradesh) to Gwalior (situated in Madhya Pradesh), with their reign commencing in 1348 and claiming direct ancestry to Lord Krishna.
Currently, their recently constructed small-scale retreat, Bera Safari Lodge—a collection of seven stone bungalows spread across four hectares amidst the Aravalli Hills—serves as an excellent starting point for observing leopards and birdwatching.
On a jeep safari, we pass through a landscape pockmarked with caves and crevices and spot leopards perched on stony precipices and rocky boulders. Rabari herders dressed in long skirts and embroidered blouses pass with bundles of firewood balanced on their heads.
Rabaris worship the Hindu deity Shiva," says Pratap, "they view the livestock deaths caused by leopards as sacrifices made to their god.
The royally connected individual recounts frequently visiting Bera since childhood, accompanied by their family, where they would spot leopards. During one such safari, they heard a resounding explosion and learned about up to 15 active granite quarries along with another 144 planned operations. This news did not bode well for the leopard population in Bera.
"I had to make a difficult choice and resigned from my position at Sula Vineyards India’s premier wine company, and devoted myself to safeguarding the Indian leopard. I tirelessly campaigned against the authorities, collaborating with the forest department to bring the mining department before the High Court.”
Today, granite mining has become obsolete, and the Bera area stands out as one of India’s premier locations for wildlife and bird watching, attracting visitors from within the country and abroad. In response to this demand, over 40 lodges have been established to accommodate these guests.
The growth in eco-friendly tourism hasn’t affected the leopard population here; their numbers have actually risen steadily over time," states Pratap with pride. "This area stands out as an ideal habitat for Indian leopards, showing absolutely no human-leopard conflicts.
A new addition to royalty in the area, Yaduveer Singh Bera, operates as a hotelier after gaining experience with top-tier hotel groups. He now manages his family’s ancient residence, which has been transformed into an exclusive boutique inn known as Castle Bera, boasting over 385 years of history.
Singh Bera -- whose ancestry can be traced back to the warrior king Maharana Pratap Udaipur (who ruled from 1572 to 1597) and is known for designing the well-loved Bera hunting jacket — additionally plays a role in conservation efforts, teaching villagers and shepherds how to monitor and safeguard leopards and other wildlife species.
Lakham Sawant Bhonsle is another royalty who lived overseas prior to his return to refurbish the family estate—an 18th-century mansion located nearby. Goa - into a chic boutique hotel.
The forefathers of Sawant Bhonsle, the rulers of Sawantwadi dating back to 1627, were renowned for their bravery in battling Portuguese colonizers. They set exemplary standards in governance, political strategies, and charitable acts.
Constructed from 1755 to 1803, the Sawantwadi Palace stands along the verdant Konkan coastline in Maharashtra. Now converted into an artistic retreat for food enthusiasts, part of this palace remains inhabited by the family, while another section serves as a museum. Additionally, craftsmen specializing in wooden toys and other regional artists utilize a separate area as their workspaces.
While studying at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Sawant Bhonsle encountered his spouse, Shraddha, who was a 32-year-old woman hailing from a business background in Mumbai. Today, she plays an essential role as the driving force behind the operations of the palace kitchen. She mentions proudly, "Our establishment stands out as the sole chef-owned heritage hotel in all of India and is uniquely positioned as the one and only palace hotel within the Maharashtra region."
The pair are also contributing to the effort of reviving ganjifa And the artistry integral to this timeless card game.
Ganjifa The cards, known for their intricate craftsmanship and typically round or rectangular shapes, originated from Persia and gained popularity during the 16th century. These early versions were often created using materials such as ivory and tortoiseshell. In an effort to restore this artistic tradition, the final recognized ruler of Sawantwadi, King Shivram Sawant Bhonsle, along with his spouse, introduced Sawantwadi Lacquerware in 1971. The skilled craftsmen involved in this initiative produce items like tea trays, coasters, and placemats inside workshops located within the royal palace premises.
When Sawant Bhonsle and Shraddha welcomed visitors into their space, they made sure that each of the six suites embodied a distinct incarnation of Lord Vishnu and was adorned with distinctive decorations. ganjifa Art and woodworking, their contributions aiding in securing a GI (geographical indication) status for the craftsmanship in 2024, aimed at safeguarding the integrity of traditional products and highlighting local heritage.
"From the moment you step into the room, every detail—from the doorknob to the decoration—reflects the craftsmanship of our artisans and features distinct local designs and techniques," explains Shraddha.
Past the verdant lawns, the portico at the front of the crimson laterite palace features teak columns adorned with depictions from the Hindu epics. Ramayana .
As well as ganjifa Art workshops and guest experiences encompass a trip to Pinguli village to watch a leather puppetry show along with a picnic within the scenic Amboni ghats.
Behind the scenes, the couple run a kindergarten, a school and a college, and in their hotel employ mainly local women, particularly in the kitchen.
"We both journey for cuisine specific to each location, and although our aim is to draw visitors with history and culture, we also want them to stay for the food According to Shraddha, who has honed her skills in Japanese and Korean cooking, these cuisines are highlighted on the hotel’s menu alongside locally sourced dishes and ingredients.
She mentions, 'We don’t offer buffets here; every item is prepared upon request. This includes freshly rolled chocolate croissants as well as traditional Maharashtra dishes such as misal—spiced sprouts in a zesty sauce—and thalipeeth—a savory multigrain pancake—that can be enjoyed during breakfast.' She continues, ‘Our kitchen bakes all the breads and prepares a distinctive pickled platter. We get creative ideas from historical royal family recipes along with regional cuisine inspired by the Konkan coast. Lunch features an intricate Rajwada Thali presentation, showcasing rich flavors characteristic of Malvani cooking, deeply rooted in our cultural legacy.’
"Lakham, who is more artistic and a trained pastry chef, makes plated desserts that are sheer works of art. One of his creations is a coconut shell, made of chocolate and coconut cream, and plated beautifully with pineapple sorbet, kokum jelly and a sprinkling of cashew soil.
Frequently, people describe Sawantwadi as being 'near Goa,' but we aim to alter this view," states Shraddha. "Sawantwadi possesses a distinct identity and cultural richness; it’s an integral part of Maharashtra and our legacy.
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