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Boasting medieval ramparts, a grand cathedral, and winding lanes lined with half-timbered houses, York is a must-visit spot for those who love history.
However, despite throngs of enthusiastic children adorned with horned helmets during the yearly Jorvik Viking Festival demonstrating that the historical legacy continues to attract many tourists, that’s not my purpose for visiting.
Yorkshire is progressively establishing itself as one of Britain's premier culinary destinations, and the The 2025 edition of the AA Restaurant Guide featured 73 establishments in North Yorkshire—more than any other region and significantly outnumbering Devon, which placed second with 58 entries.
Given this, my partner and I are set to explore York’s cuisine via a gastronomic journey, beginning with a guided stroll led by the person behind a food blog. York on a Fork , Ben Thorpe.
Following his departure from what he deemed a 'dull' profession in financial services, Ben now organizes food tours throughout York. He takes tourists to visit nine of his preferred eateries—where they can enjoy a meal or a drink at each location.
If you want to experience the heartbeat of Yorkshire's cultural epicenter through its cuisine, this is how you should go about it!
Our initial destination is Ippuku Tea House, an establishment conceived by the married duo Frankie and Tatsu Ozaki.
Hailing from Saltburn In North Yorkshire, Frankie is the younger sibling of two, and both have married Japanese men.
Now she's dedicated to introducing the genuine flavors of Japan to Yorkshire, presenting a tofu rice dish complete with pickles and dumplings, complemented by a piping hot serving of freshly brewed Sencha tea, known for its vibrant green hue and herbaceous aroma.
Coming up next, Ben treats us to a small serving of 'fish and chip shop chips' at Drakes Fisheries. The luxurious, crisp batter combined with addictive fries demonstrates that using beef tallow for frying surpasses the typical use of vegetable oil prevalent further south.
Following a brief stroll, we arrive at The Shambles, York’s renowned thoroughfare and once the central point for its meat industry—reflected in the butcher's hooks that remain suspended over certain shopfronts here.
Considering this legacy, it feels fitting to savor a smoked pork taco at Shambles Kitchen prior to visiting a recently opened patisserie and café established by Florian Poirot, the renowned pastry chef known for his exceptional macarons and chocolates which gained him significant popularity after opening his initial store in neighboring Malton back in 2017.
Ben also introduces us to York’s role in Britain's gin resurgence through York Gin—a range of accolade-filled spirits influenced by local personalities—before we make our way to four additional destinations, one standout being Ambiente Tapas, a spirited Spanish-themed eatery and sherry bar known for its enthusiastic and welcoming team.
A recurring highlight during his tours is Love Cheese, an intimate and eccentric cheese store and bar known as 'the world's first Speakcheesey'.
On another occasion, we come back to indulge in 'Afternoon Cheese,' an entertaining twist on the classic British tradition. This features five types of cheese arranged on a three-level platter overflowing with cured meats, olives, cornichons, chutney, crackers, and bread sourced from the nearby town of Haxby.
Every cheese is carefully selected by the highly informed shop owner, Jordan, who engages in friendly banter with customers as he offers personalized recommendations to meet their individual cheese requirements.
In addition to cheese, York also gained recognition for its chocolate, thanks to confectionery company Terry's, which originated in the city back in 1767 prior to being acquired by an international entity that relocated production to France in 2005.
The Grade II-listed, formerly industrial structure owned by the company, which offers views of York Racecourse, stood vacant for several years prior to its conversion into upscale residential units.
Luckily for those who love good food, it has also become home to The Old Liquor Store , an eatery with Italian influences, along with a bar and wine shop, managed by experienced restaurateur Ben Williams.
The head chef, Matt Leivers, was lured away from the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome, which makes it a must-visit destination for any culinary enthusiast exploring York.
Stopping by for supper, we relish an outstanding array of beautifully presented meals that pack strong tastes without any pretension or skimpy servings.
I've opted for the pan-seared seabass fillet served with rice noodles and Asian greens as my main course.
However, what really stands out is my dessert—a caramelized white chocolate panna cotta crowned with cookie crumbs and brittle slices of zesty Granny Smith apples.
For demonstrating reinvention, The Old Liquor Store aptly blends with a city where numerous structures exhibit evidence of having been adapted and reused throughout their extensive histories.
This is particularly evident in the Museum Gardens, where the remains of a Benedictine abbey and an ancient hospital share ground with a Roman tower, a local church, and the neoclassical Yorkshire Museum.
Beneath the scowling gargoyles and majestic Gothic arches of York Minster lies the Undercroft, which exposes remnants of a Roman fortification along with an Anglo-Saxon burial ground, all nestled among the Norman bases of the present structure.
As you explore the city’s culinary scene, don’t forget to allocate some time for hidden treasures such as All Saints' Church on North Street. This place boasts a 15th-century window depicting scenes from the end times, alongside intricately styled cherubs gazing over visitors from the elaborate hammer-beam ceiling above.
The small-scale layout from York’s medieval period makes the city quite pedestrian-friendly, especially when utilizing the shortcuts offered by its intricate network of concealed lanes—often referred to as Snickelways.
And if you ever feel exhausted from all that walking, rest assured there will always be a place close by where you can grab something to eat!
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