In Northern Nigeria, Lalle isn’t merely an activity pursued for appearance’s sake; it’s a cultural practice and a significant aspect of maturing. Many women have experienced it at least once during their lives, be it for weddings, Eid celebrations, or simply enhancing one's beauty. Notably, this exquisite form of expression doesn’t appeal exclusively to women from the north but has gained popularity among females throughout the nation, particularly those residing in the south.
For numerous decades, women prepared it at home. They would dry the leaves, grind them into a fine powder, and blend them with ingredients such as potash and lemon juice. This process required sitting patiently for hours while an elderly woman or a trusted companion assisted in applying it. Typically, the patterns were basic; nonetheless, over time, henna art has evolved significantly. Many users of henna continue to embrace these transformations and adapt accordingly.
Based on research from DataHorizon, the worldwide henna powder market had a value of $109.7 million in 2023, and projections suggest this will nearly triple by 2032, reaching an estimated $248.7 million. In Nigeria, freelance artists typically charge between ₦5,000 and ₦20,000 for bridal packages, serving as many as fifteen customers per day. Established henna artists may command rates upwards of ₦60,000 for bridal designs, whereas casual appointments generally begin at approximately ₦10,000 to ₦20,000.
Traditional vs modern revolution
Nowadays, however, circumstances have altered. Henna, formerly known as Lalle, is no longer predominantly the traditional leaf-based paste that was commonly made at home. Instead, what you typically see nowadays are commercially available cones, imported goods, and ready-made sticker designs. Many women prefer these alternatives because they are quicker, simpler to use, and yield neater outcomes.
Despite some individuals still favoring the classic Lalle, henna has emerged as the preferred option according to Amina Yelwa, a 26-year-old henna artist. She adds that it offers cleaner and more intricate patterns.
Yet, for certain individuals, the recollections of traditional practices maintain their allure. Hajiya Inna Yarinya, at 72 years old, recalls the methods used in earlier times. "We mixed the powder with lemon juice and water, let it sit overnight, and afterward immersed our hands into hollowed-out bowls," she explains. "No tracing involved—just adding the mixture and patiently awaiting lengthy periods." She adds, "As a consequence, the patterns turn out much deeper and richer than those of any blossom."
Then there's the matter of preference and belief. 'My mother prefers red henna,' says Nafisa Bauchi. 'People say the dark one attracts spirits, while red signifies prestige.'
Some, like Amina Kamshi, see it as both cultural and religious. 'It's our tradition and part of our faith,' she says.
And for others, it's just about what's quick and easy. Laurah Mahuta, shares how much easier things have become. 'Before, we had to wait hours for the designs to set, and the whole process was much more complicated,' she says. 'But now, with the machines that carve designs onto sellotapes, it's faster. The waiting time is reduced and it's a huge convenience.'
For some people, it’s all about the speed and convenience. "I'm really into this latest trend," remarks Rabi Yusuf. "The designs come ready-made; you simply apply the adhesive without worrying about errors or messy results."
Nevertheless, not all aspects of the new henna are ideal. As stated by Husna Khalil, a 27-year-old student, "The new version does not endure as long as the conventional Lalle." She also mentions occasional skin irritation leading to rashes and notes her nails turning white after use, questioning what additives might be included.
Amira Muhammad shares the same sentiment. She mentions, "I was fond of black henna initially. However, it now contains numerous harmful substances that cause severe irritation, burning sensations, and persistent scars which can take several months to fade away. As a result, I have reverted to using traditional Lalle since I adore it; not only is it safer but also more long-lasting."
Hauwa Musa also sticks to the old ways. 'The red, locally made Lalle is the best, I use it for spiritual purposes, as a face mask, and even on my husband's beard.' She noted.
Taking a walk through Kurmi Market in Kano says it all. You'll still find the familiar bags of traditional powder and fragrant muhallabiya, but now they sit next to shelves filled with imported henna cones, sticker stencils, disposable gloves,stamps and all sorts of accessories. It's no longer just about the tradition. It's about convenience, creativity, and for many women, a real source of income.
At Kurmi Market, traders like Muhammad Rabiu offer both the new and old. 'Women come for different types-dark, red, pre-shaped,' he says. 'We help them avoid harmful blends.'
Challenges
For henna designers like Sadiya Sulaima Salisu, 40, who has been part of this world for years. She started learning in 1996, heating sib?a powder with scented oils. By 2002, she had turned her skills into a business, thanks to a ?200 loan from her father back then. From freehand floral patterns called ?andayis, to creating the now-popular 'henna board' for clean lines, Sadiya has always kept things moving.
However, it’s not always easy. "Things that used to last me for three months now get depleted in just three days," she explains. With prices increasing, she frequently engages in negotiations via social media, especially on Instagram, simply to keep her business running. “There are times when I barely break even. Yet, the blessings and my heartfelt thanks truly matter,” she shared.
She continues by discussing certain difficulties. "One hurdle is societal views," she explains. "Not everybody believes it’s acceptable for women to own henna companies." According to Sadiya, “Some people consider me improper because of my henna store,” yet she maintains her stance, stating firmly, “I am confident that what I’m doing is right.”
Nevertheless, despite all the transformations, one aspect remains constant: henna is far more than mere adornment. In Northern Nigeria, it is deeply connected to notions of beauty, faith, and personal identity, and has also become a thriving industry.
Safety is increasingly becoming a paramount concern as numerous products in the market are deemed unsafe for use on the skin. This has led more women to inquire about and understand how to distinguish genuine henna from dangerous blends. Traders advise that authentic henna ought to consist solely of powdered henna leaves, lemon juice, and natural oils—excluding any strong chemicals or artificial colorants.
I have been practicing henna art for two years," stated Meenah Abdul, a home-based henna artist from Abuja. "My journey began due to my passion for enhancing women’s beauty, and henna is among the ways I achieve this.
In Abuja, she mentioned that both red stencils and cone patterns are favored, though black henna tends to be more popular, particularly amongst her Christian customers. "I like using stencils myself, whereas my team takes care of the black henna requests from those who want them," she stated.
Meenah charges £2,000 per hand for cone designs and £2,500 for stencil work. She says her rates are reasonable as she has employees to compensate. "I wouldn’t want to shortchange my team; henna artistry is demanding and exhausting. They too have families to support through their earnings."
In spite of the difficulties, Meenah envisions a promising future. 'Henna is driven by enthusiasm. I think the expansion is only beginning, and it will continue to improve. If you're passionate about it, go after your dreams.'
Initially a laborious, artisanal practice, the craft has transformed into a quicker, more accessible procedure. With the sector expanding, an increasing number of individuals are adopting these advancements yet they still uphold the cultural importance of henna. Clearly, this enduring artistic expression will keep evolving; however, its allure and essence will persist unchanged.
Provided by Syndigate Media Inc. ( Syndigate.info ).
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