I'm standing under the gaze of the town hall in Marktplatz in Dusseldorf's Old Town and rummaging through the beautifully handcrafted ornaments. Warm white light fills the air, which is laced with cinnamon and nutmeg.
I've seven markets to explore in Dusseldorf alone and it's hard to believe this city only saw its first Christmas market open in 1973.
The history of festive markets in Germany goes all the way back to 1434 in Dresden but nowhere does it better than the towns on the banks of the River Rhine. It twists and turns with winter cheer dotted along its banks.
I'm with my daughter Nicole, who loves any excuse to shop and eat delicious food. Our stay in Dusseldorf starts at our centrally located hotel, the Sir And Lady Astor, where we drop off our bags and head for the water. First on our to-do list is a festive two-hour cruise of the Rhine with St Nicholas on board. He's the original giver of gifts to children in religious tradition.
Snowflakes sprinkle overhead as we leave the dock and take our seats for the ride. A two-hour cruise with Koln-Dusseldorfer (k-d.com) starts from €29 and is a lovely way to see the river, with entertainment included. It's possible to get a boat between Cologne and Dusseldorf with a day return or single journey.
To get our bearings we take a tour with local guide Ingrid, who has lived in Dusseldorf for most of her life. She brings us to Marktplatz to see the massive Christmas tree covered with red baubles and golden stars, where the stalls are all painted red. I pick up some beautiful shiny candles and soaps.
There's something for everyone with an eclectic mix of trinkets. Ingrid stops at a stall for some hot chocolate and gingerbread cake. She tells us that the build-up to Christmas was considered a time of fasting in the middle ages but because this delicious cake was considered a medicine, containing spices and herbs, the priests allowed it to be eaten.
New this year is the Winter Village market, which runs along the banks of the Rhine and takes us to the Wheel of Vision at Burgplatz for a fun viewing of the Old Town and the river.
A ferris wheel ride is quintessential to Christmas but so too is ice skating and at Ko-Bogen Market we get to give it a go.
Around the rink are bars and stalls offering hot drinks and cocktails, with a DJ playing a set that puts everyone in festive mood.
Dusseldorf has a thriving Japanese community since a large group migrated to the city after World War II. Little Tokyo is the name given to this district and it's lined with fantastic shops and authentic restaurants.
We arrived at Kushi-Tei on a Sunday evening and the queues were out the door, so booking in advance is essential. Here I opted for a noodle dish with prawns in tempura. Nicole is the food expert in the family and she went for the sushi and sashimi - both met with approval.
Public transport is quick, easy, cheap and efficient in Germany, so we slip off on the train to Cologne the next day to explore more markets. A novel way to take in a variety is on the Christmas Market Express.
It starts at the Dome, where a trip inside the magnificent gothic cathedral is a highlight. Bathed in blue light with fairy lights dripping from the trees and angel wings sticking out of the wooden huts, the Angel Market is one of the stops and a favourite of ours.
Another is St Nicholas Village on Rudolph Platz and here you might just spot a talking reindeer or two. Cologne is a charming city and home to the biggest Mardi Gras Carnival in Germany every February.
I take Nicole to Fruh Pub for her first Kolsch. This traditional beer is served in 20cl glasses and waiters keep tabs by putting a mark for each drink on the beer mats. To stop the waiter bringing more beers we learn to put a beer mat on top of the glass.
There's a genial rivalry between the cities of Cologne and Dusseldorf when it comes to beer, with the later serving Altbier. We stop off in Uerige when we return to Dusseldorf, where the 1980s TV series Auf Wiedersehen Pet was filmed. Here the dark brown Altbier comes out in similar thin glasses - we agree both cities have much to boast about.
Hearty food is at the core of German cuisine and Zum Schlussel is a brewery restaurant that has wonderful atmosphere as well as its own beer. Slow-cooked beef and large cuts of pork served with red cabbage, sauerkraut and creamy mashed potatoes is just the trick to heat us up.
Next morning we set off for the best view of Dusseldorf. We take the lift 168m into the air at the Rhine Tower and here we see the vast expanse stretching all the way to the airport on one side and Cologne Cathedral on the other. Below, the cargo and cruise ships sweep along the serpentine bend of the Rhine, and makes spectacular viewing.
There's a cosy café to have a spot of lunch or a coffee at the top and entry is €12.50 (rheinturm.de).
Christmas markets are a massive tradition all over Europe and it can be difficult to choose a destination. We are becoming aficionados having visited many different countries over the years. But we agree that to truly soak up the sights and tastes of this festive time of year, Germany has it all.
TRAVEL FACTS
Michelle was a guest of Visit Dusseldorf, see visit dusseldorf.de. Fly direct with Aer Lingus from €25 each way. For getting around, use Dusseldorfcard, from €13.90 for 24 hours.
Rooms at Sir and Lady Astor Hotels from €93 per night, see lady-astor.de. For the ultimate Christmas Market trip in 2026, the five-day Enchanting Rhine & Yuletide Markets on four-star MS Riviera Resplendence, including flights transfers and dining costs from €1,599 per person sharing, jwttravel.ie. For more from michelle see thenoveltraveller.com.
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