From Mid Air to Mediterranean Vibes: Melbourne's New Rooftop Oasis, Cleo, Takes Flight
Melbourne's vibrant rooftop scene has a new contender, and it’s aiming for a more relaxed and accessible vibe than its predecessor. Following a brief and somewhat turbulent 10-month run, the buzzy sky-high eatery Mid Air, which graced the city's skyline last summer, has officially closed its doors. However, the prime location atop the boutique Melbourne Place hotel, situated 12 floors above Russell Street, has wasted no time in undergoing a significant transformation.
Reopening its doors this Saturday, the space has been reborn as Cleo, a venue described as a more casual hangout with a distinct focus on drinks, complemented by a menu featuring Mediterranean-inspired skewers, raw seafood, grilled meats, and an array of mezze.
When questioned about the short lifespan of Mid Air, Jodi Brown, the general manager of Hyde Melbourne Place, explained that the previous layout wasn't conducive to maximising the potential of the space. While online feedback and diner reviews for Mid Air frequently pointed to issues with slow service and high price points, problems that seemingly persisted, Cleo aims to rectify these shortcomings.
"We wanted to use the opportunity to refresh and revamp the rooftop to allow us to create a more functional space that would allow a larger capacity," Brown elaborated on the strategic shift. The once-present couches that offered views of Melbourne's towering cityscape, framed by the building's unique circular architectural features, have been removed. In their place, additional dining tables and chairs have been installed, increasing the venue's capacity to a more accommodating 120 patrons, encompassing both indoor and outdoor areas.
The interior design of Cleo evokes a distinct European summer ambiance. Touches of terracotta are artfully integrated throughout, accentuating the existing tiled flooring. Complementing this are jarrah timber panelling, draped linen curtains, and an abundance of lush greenery, all contributing to an atmosphere that Brown describes as feeling like "you could be sitting on the Mediterranean, but right in the middle of Melbourne."
Cleo joins a growing number of new bars making waves in Melbourne, with several other rooftop establishments also emerging. Nearby, just 400 metres away, diners can explore Disuko, a Japanese-inspired bar. Further afield, the revamped Waterside Hotel on King Street offers multiple outdoor decks and balconies.
The hotel itself, now connected to Cleo, has also undergone a rebranding. Following its acquisition by Accor's Ennismore Hotel Group in May, it is now known as Hyde Melbourne Place. This overarching brand shift signals a new era for the entire establishment.
Beneath Cleo, the building houses the Portuguese restaurant Marmelo, alongside the moody basement bar Mr Mills. At the very apex, however, Cleo presents its relaxed mezze-style offering, available from breakfast right through to dinner. Leading the kitchen is head chef Jordan Clavaron, whose impressive culinary background includes stints at highly regarded venues such as Cutler, Society, Lucia, and most recently, Poodle.
A Culinary Journey Through the Mediterranean
A newly installed wood-fired oven is a centrepiece of the kitchen, producing an array of fresh flatbreads that are perfect for pairing with the house-made dips. Patrons can choose from delights such as Persian feta labne with za'atar, or matbucha, a flavourful Moroccan dip made with slow-roasted tomatoes and red capsicum, boasting a spicy, garlicky kick.
The seafood selection features oysters sourced from across Australia, with a commitment to seasonality. The menu also highlights Westholme wagyu beef, appearing in three distinct preparations: as a raw tartare with harissa and pine nuts; grilled and served with ajvar, a smoky Balkan red capsicum relish; and in the form of koftas, accompanied by labne and a vibrant dollop of zhoug, a piquant Yemeni hot sauce based on coriander and chilli.
Reflecting the southern European theme, ingredients like pistachio, sumac, and pomegranate are thoughtfully incorporated into both the food and drink offerings.
Drinks: Accessible Sophistication
While drinks are a significant focus at Cleo, sommelier and beverage operations manager Matthew Jensen, who has previously worked at esteemed establishments like Vue de Monde and Farmer’s Daughters, emphasises that the approach is not about overly complex or intimidating cocktails.
“For me, if you want really strange cocktails, things you might never see, you’d go to Caretakers Cottage, or Bouvardia around the corner,” Jensen stated. “That’s not what we’re trying to replicate here. We want to be something that’s not confronting… I love [those bars], but sometimes … it can be a little bit challenging for people.”
Instead, Cleo embraces a more approachable, yet creative, beverage program. A milkshake maker behind the bar adds a touch of "fluff" to fruity cocktails designed for leisurely summer afternoons, including a pineapple cobbler-inspired creation. Jensen's interpretation of the classic Pina Colada, for instance, offers a familiar taste with a creative twist, featuring clarified pineapple and lime juice blended with the French aperitif Lillet Blanc. Lillet also features in the house spritz, a refreshing concoction with Campari, lemon myrtle honey, cucumber, and a splash of Zonzo Estate's pistachio spritz.
Jensen acknowledges Melbourne's reputation for world-class bars, but notes the city's potential for being "a bit set in our ways." The philosophy at Cleo is to present familiar elements in "not a traditional format," offering a delightful surprise without being overwhelming.
The wine list aims for breadth without intimidation, showcasing a range of Victorian regions including Heathcote, Gippsland, Geelong, and the Mornington Peninsula. A selection of wines from McLaren Vale is also available, alongside a curated collection of European varietals for those seeking to explore further.
Events and Entertainment
Looking ahead, Cleo is set to host a variety of events and experiences. From January, a bottomless brunch accompanied by live music will be a weekly feature every Saturday. Hotel guests can also partake in an upscale Saturday morning pilates class, followed by LED face masks and a breakfast spread.
Throughout the summer, the rooftop will be alive with entertainment, including regular DJ sets every Friday through to Sunday. Additional entertainment will be provided during major events like the Australian Open and the Grand Prix, ensuring a lively atmosphere for all.
Cleo is located at Level 12, 130 Russell Street, Melbourne, and can be found online at cleomelbourne.com.au. The venue will be serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily.
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