Strolling through the Palexpo in Geneva during the yearly Watches and Wonders exhibition can be quite an overwhelming experience for the senses. The sheer number of exhibitor stands and timepieces on display is immense.
A visit to the Van Cleef & Arpels The booth offers a brief respite. It feels as if you've stumbled upon an enchanted woodland. As the former CEO of the French house, Nicolas Bos (The current CEO of Richemont) previously mentioned to me that at Watches and Wonders, you’re encircled by men and their playthings — such as cars and boats — while “we are here with our fairies and our butterflies.”
The fairies and butterflies dancing around the faces of the mansion's timepieces, nonetheless, possess impressive watchmaking skills.
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Unlike numerous other watch brands showcased annually at the trade fair, Van Cleef & Arpels opts to conceal its intricate craftsmanship—no whirling tourbillons in sight. This approach was compared by Rainer Bernard, who leads the research and development efforts in watchmaking at Van Cleef & Arpels, to an opera where viewers admire the elegance of the performance without glimpsing the unattractive mechanisms backstage.
A number of the brand's watches received awards at this year’s “Oscars of watchmaking,” known as the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). This further underscores the significance and quality of these timepieces.
Bernard refers to the mechanisms governing the maison's timepieces as "poetic complications," stating that they imbue the watches with a sense of "a fourth dimension."
The motion of various components is crucial to the narrative. This could manifest as two star-crossed lovers approaching one another on a Parisian bridge, sharing a passionate embrace at midnight. Alternatively, it might involve blossoms that signify the passage of time through their blooming cycles, altering the appearance of the garden progressively. Frequently, discerning the correct moment requires understanding this subtle form of storytelling—a distinctive method of tracking time imbued with emotional depth,” he explains.
Our Poetic Complications encourage you continually to 'spend a moment savoring the moment,' which similarly invites you to cherish this exact instant in your life.
Van Cleef & Arpels is not alone among jewelers who have established their presence in the previously exclusive realm of watches. Watches produced by jewelers—and luxury fashion brands like Chanel and Hermès—are now considered more than just an addition, reflecting a trend that has been ongoing for quite some time.
In 1904, Cartier pioneered the contemporary wristwatch with the introduction of the Santos model, honoring its inspirer—Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. These timepieces, embodying classic and timeless design elements, hold a special place among collectors and enthusiasts alike. Louis Cartier drew creative cues from various sources beyond jewelry boxes, such as tank treads during military engagements for the iconic Tank collection. He viewed jewelers not merely as designers but also as skilled watchmakers.
Piaget has also achieved cult status with its designs. The relaunch of its famous Polo 79 watch last year, along with the renamed Andy Warhol edition—featuring the artist’s preferred Beta21 movement, formerly known as the Black Tie—solidified this reputation. Similarly, brands such as Harry Winston are merging jewelry aesthetics with advanced technology, exemplified by their Ocean Tourbillon GMT Worldtimer from the Ocean line.
In January of this year, Tiffany & Co., an esteemed American brand, signaled its entry into the world of watchmaking by participating in LVMH Watch Week for the first time. This move made it part of the prestigious group’s yearly exhibition featuring new releases from its various watch brands.
Although, as Anthony Ledru, the president and CEO of Tiffany & Co., notes, the jewelry company has been producing timepieces for over 150 years.
Highlighting exceptional workmanship, detailed designs, and exact mechanisms, our timepieces embody Tiffany's commitment to superiority and unmatched creativity,” he states.
Keep in mind that not all jewelers achieve the same level of success, particularly those lacking distinct characteristics or the expertise to attract serious watch collectors.
A jeweler who doesn’t face this issue at all is Bulgari. Known for their daring and seductive aesthetic, which is immediately identifiable, the Roman jewelry house entered the watch market back in 1977 with the iconic Bulgari Bulgari collection (which was recently relaunched). Their signature Serpenti design has adorned the wrists of numerous trendsetting women—from Elizabeth Taylor to Zendaya—yet they've increasingly focused on timepieces over recent years.
The brand has showcased remarkable achievements in high-end watchmaking—most notably the competition with rival jeweler Piaget to create the thinnest mechanical timepiece, which is nearly as flat as an image of a watch. Recently, towards the end of last year, they declared their intention to consolidate all artistic crafts within their facility in Saignelegier, located in the Swiss Jura mountains. This consolidation will unite the manufacturing processes for watch cases and dials under one roof and increase the factory’s size from 3,400 to 4,000 square meters.
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, states that the increased production marks a new benchmark for the brand’s ambitions in watchmaking.
He states that integrating a metiers d'art workshop entirely within our watch manufacturing facility demonstrates Bulgari’s dedication to craftsmanship, superiority, heritage, and enthusiasm. This approach allows us to constantly explore new realms of creativity and advanced technology in luxury watch production.
It wasn’t easy to make a dent in the rather sluggish world of watchmaking, given all the obstacles involved.
Initially, we encountered skepticism since Bulgari was mainly recognized as a jewelry brand. Nonetheless, with our steadfast dedication to technological advancements—like the numerous world records achieved by the Octo series—and our profound reverence for classic horological principles, we've effectively showcased our credibility in this domain,” states Babin.
Malaika Crawford, who works as the style editor for the watch magazine Hodinkee, has been a devoted admirer of Bulgari for many years. The brand’s signature Serpenti collection captivated her attention—initially through jewelry pieces before extending into timepieces. According to Crawford, these watches have an allure that speaks uniquely to women.
"The strength of Bulgari as a watch manufacturer stems from its ability to leverage its jewelry background and expertise to connect with women in a manner that numerous watch brands struggle to achieve," she explains.
Frequently, wristwatches designed specifically for women seem like they were an afterthought—merely a hasty effort to make something appealing to females without much consideration. When I put on a Bulgari timepiece, however, it’s clear that thoughtful planning went into the design process. Many more companies ought to concentrate on understanding genuine preferences among their female customers rather than fixating solely on adhering to politically correct terminology and nuances. Thorough market analysis proves invaluable here. Women, akin to men, have varied interests; personal tastes vary widely irrespective of gender.
Moreover, as Crawford suggests, the Serpenti "is not dainty – it’s seductive."
Designed for both enjoyment and adornment, these timepieces represent a deliberate creation in women's watches. They encapsulate my ideal desires and requirements for an accessory.
The result of acknowledging the gravity that Babin discusses within the realm of watchmaking, similar to what other jewelers with established reputations have done, is that their customer base expands beyond just those who appreciate their jewelry.
Bulgari is acknowledged as an authentic and pioneering leader in high-end watchmaking. According to him, "The clientele has changed considerably over time." He explains further, "Originally, our timepieces were primarily appreciated by individuals drawn to Bulgari’s jewelry expertise. Today, however, we observe an increasing number of aficionados and connoisseurs who appreciate both the technical innovations and daring aesthetics, all encapsulated within the distinctive fusion of Italian creativity and Swiss precision that characterizes Bulgari products."
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